Friday, 23 March 2012

College/Pannelled dress

I shall be writing a few posts about college for the next few days and I will try and put my images up as my laptop has decided to go all weird on me...

ANYWAY, here are the steps so far on my pannelled dress pattern.

I think this project we are doing now in pattern cutting is by far my favourite because I LOVE dresses!
This is a pannelled dress where panels are put in for a design feature on the dress.

We got the freedom to choose our own adaption of the dress with the neckline, length and panels.
I have fallen for the sportswear luxe trend this season and how the 'scuba' neckline has taken Britain by storm throughout all high street shops, street style, bloggers and of course the catwalk.

I have decided to replicate this neckline (which I have found quite hard to create on the pattern!) but will most probably make another example but as a crop top.

Step one:

I traced around the dress block, marking in the notches and design lines.

Step two:

From the original dress pattern I got rid of the shoulder dart and took it off the end shoulder so the dart was no longer there but there was still the right measurements.

Step Three:

I adapted the back piece by drawing on a racer back design line by deepening the back.

Step Four:

I then created 2 panels by drawing on my design line going through the back dart (see below).

Step Five:

To complete this I then traced both panels off by adding seam allowances of 1.5cm and notches.

Step Six:

With the front piece I adapted the neckline by creating a new curved line that I slashed and then closed the original front dart.

Step Seven:

I then traced around these 2 panel pieces with 1.5cm seam allowance apart from the CB piecesand cut out.

Step Eight:

I then traced around the neckline and armhole by turning the pattern pieces opposite each other and masking taped them down.

Step Nine:


See above the drawings I made on the patterns for the facings.

I then had to measure 3cm width and cut this pattern piece out ready for the facing and interfacing.

These facings will be put in the neckline and armhole to neaten edges.

And that is how I created my pattern.


1. I started by sewing all my front panels together with a 1.5cm SA. I then sewed all the back panels together making sure I lined my notches up to help with curves. below is an image of the 3 back panels stitched together. 

This is the front where I decided to insert a chunky zip. 

2. To insert the zip into the CF I had to overlock these edges. This is an open end zip which had to look perfect as it was showing on the front of the dress. With the open end zip I unzipped the whole zip so I could sew both sides separately. I tacked the zip in and then sewed all the way to the bottom NEATLY! As I used orange sewing thread the stitching had to be very straight as it can be seen on the edge of the fabric. As seen above.

3. I then sewed the neck facing on by overlocking the outer edges of the facing and then pinned the facing to the neck line right sides together. I used a 1.5cm SA and reduced the bulk. I then flipped the facing over and stitched a retainer row on the facing to hold in place. (This is seen in picture above with orange stitching.) 

4. I hemmed my dress by turning up the overlocked hem and then turned it up again this time 1.5cm and then sewed across it. I have since found out that my stitch line for the hem is NOT correct and it should have been stitched higher up closer to the fold line.

What do you think??

Lots of love!

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