Wednesday, 8 May 2013

Toile Diary: Goddess Dress

(Nasty Gal El Matador dress)

This image inspired the style of dress that I wanted to capture in my collection. So I replicated the off-the-shoulder feature and the bell sleeves and gathers.

  • To pattern the garment I traced around a basic dress block and cut it off at the hip
  • Insert photo
  • I measured the hip and waist lines and extended them both by three times the length (to allow for the gathering in the design)
  • I measured the bust and underarm lines and extended them both by three times the length (to allow for the gathering in the sleeve) I altered the arm hole by dropping the opening by 7.5cms (to remove the bulk and make the armhole and sleeve loose as per the design)
  • For the sleeve, I traced around a basic sleeve block and made adjustments to allow the sleeve to hang off the shoulder (insert picture) I also extended the sleeve from the underarm and elbow line by three times the length. I then adjusted the armhole to match up with the armhole of the dress pattern piece.
  • To create a gathered panel (or cuff) from the elbow line of the sleeve, I measured the bottom edge of the sleeve and added 25%. (insert picture)
  • To create a similarly gathered panel on the dress, I measured the hipline and added 25%. (insert picture)

  • I cut the pattern pieces (cut on fold) out of lace netting.
  • I machine stitched two rows of tacking stitch to create the gathers at the neckline (I repeated the same on the front and back gathered panel pieces.)
  • I gathered the front and back necklines to the required length and machine stitched in place.
  • I also gathered the sleeve and dress panels to the required length and machine stitched in place. (insert picture)
  • I machine stitched the side seams and overlocked the raw edges
  • I attached the sleeves by stitching around the armholes and overlocking the raw edges
  • To neaten the edges I bias binded the neckline and off-the-shoulder sleeves.
  • I machine stitched two shoulder straps in place (see picture)

Adjustments to make:

I was not happy with the length (both dress and sleeve) so I will shorten the final pattern
I will use cheesecloth or muslin for my final fabric as the toile netting did not drape as well as I would have liked.

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