Toile Diary: Maiden Dress

Skirt:

• I started with a basic skirt block (to the knee) and I then extended it to a floor length maxi skirt.
• I the slashed and spread the front block to create a flared, A-line/circular shape. (photo)
• I traced around the new shape (including hip and kne lines.
• I  cut the skirt pattern into panels using the hip and knee lines as the dividing points (photo)
• To create the gathered Gypsy skirt effect I had to extend the panel pieces by 25%. (This gave a total of 100% as there are 4 extended edges to the pattern) (photo)

Bodice:

• I traced around a basic bodice block and sleeve.
• I ignored the darts in the bodice to achieve a less tailored look.
• I used the same slash and spread technique as the skirt, for the sleeves, to create the same Gypsy style effect. I judged where to cut the panels by eye and extended them by 25% (50% in total) to achieve a fuller sleeve.
• On the back bodice I lowered the neckline by 2cms. I left the front neckline as original to create a peasant, laced-up effect.

Skirt:

• In order to prevent toile fabric wastage I cut the skirt panel pieces in single sections, ignored the grainline and didn’t cut it on the fold. I intend to cut on the fold in my final fabric and think about the grainline.
• I became aware that I didn’t allow a 1.5cm SA when I sewed the panel pieces together (which should have been cut on the fold.)
• I gathered the middle and lower panels by using 2 rows of a (tacking) machine stitch. These rows were sewn either side of the 1.5cm SA line to allow me to use a 1.5cm SA when stitching the panels together. (photo)
• I sewed the panels together and unpicked the lower tacking stitch (because it was visible) and then over locked all edges to neaten.
• I sewed both side seams together (1.5 SA) and overlocked the edges.

Bodice:

• I cut out the bodice pattern pieces and sewed the shoulder seams together. I then sewed the sleeves to the arm holes. I the sewed the side seams and sleeve seams (I used the same Gypsy style effect as the skirt when making the sleeves.)

Dress:

• I joined the bodice to the skirt by turning the skirt inside out and placing the bodice (right side to right side) inside the skirt. I pinned and machine stitched (1.5cm SA) the two together. I overlocked the edges for neatness.