Thursday, 28 March 2013

Toile diary: Trousers

  1. I traced around a trouser block and marked off notches and all the information.
  2. I then started adapting the pattern to match my trouser design by using a trouser toile already made from the original pattern 
  3. I pinned the toile to fit as desired on the stand (as they are leggings I made it close fitting)
  4. I measured the reductions and transferred the measurements to the paper pattern
  5. I made a pattern for the buckle straps (3.5cms doubled for both sides of the strap plus 1cm seam allowance)
  6. I altered the length of the buckle straps depending on the position on the leg (e.g. thigh level is longer than lower leg level)
  7. I toiled the trousers using a stretchy jersey fabric as I am using lycra for the final garment
  8. I inserted an invisible zip at centre back. (I chose not to use a zip in the final garment as the fabric is too stretchy and the zip made the fabric bulge and it looked uneven. I replaced the zip with a waistband. I made a pattern - 3cm strip plus 1cm SA)
  9. I sewed the inside and outer seams of the trouser by over locking (a normal stitch was not used as the fabric is stretchy)
  10. I hemmed the trousers by overlocking then turning hem up twice (approx 2cms) and hand-stitched the hem (this didn't work because when trying the trousers on the hand stitching came undone.)
  11. I sampled one buckle strap on the toile. I did not use interfacing so it was not firm enough to hold its shape (it scrunched up) I intend to use interfacing in the final garment.
  12. I then began making my final garment out of metallic lycra.
  13. I cut the four pattern pieces on folded fabric
  14. I cut out my waistband and ten buckle straps on single layer fabric
  15. I started overlocking the leg pieces together (front to back - outer side seam and inside seam)
  16. I sewed the CF and then CB together
  17. I added the waistband then tried on for size. The trousers were too big so I had to sew a seam down the centre back to fit.
  18. Buckle straps: I ironed on the interfacing and sewed the straps and bagged them out. I hand stitched the end seams and added the buckles by threading the strap through and machine stitching in place.
  19. I hand stitched the buckle straps down the inside seams on both legs. So you cannot see the stitch on the outside of the buckle strap.
  20. I hemmed the trouser leg using the cover stitch machine 

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