Samples galore!?

In college we created samples of seams, pockets and bias binding for inspiration on designing and also so we have the knowledge and know what to do in the future if we ever use these details.

This is a structure pocket which can be found on jeans, trousers, shorts etc... 

The above 2 images are of a fly zip which can also be found on jeans and trousers. I found the fly zip quite complicate to construct! But after doing it once and having wrote down what to do I will be able to get better when I make any garments with a fly zip on. 

These are curved bias binding which were even harder to sew as it is sewn on a curve! I had to be careful to keep the stitch on the bias binding while sewing because I had to feed the bias through on the fabric while curving it at the same time!

the 2 above images are of curved and pointed seams which are found in shirts, shorts and skirts. The pointed seam is mainly found in constructing pockets and I found this the easiest seam to reconstruct. I had to cut notches and triangles out so the seam would lie flat and then I steamed them. 

This is my attempt of bias binding on an edge which was a lot easier than sewing on a curve! Bias binding finishes off a raw edge to give a neat and professional appearance to a garment. Usually found on ready to wear garments. 

This is a jean seam or a flat-felled seam. 

This is my invisible zip which I found hard to construct because you have to make sure the zip is hidden!

Fashion show poster

This is the fashion show poster i created by scanning in the image I drew by drawing and editing the font on photoshop.

I plan to add more to it with kaleidoscope and shapes. 

Toile diary: Trousers

1. I traced around a trouser block and marked off notches and all the information.
2. I then started adapting the pattern to match my trouser design by using a trouser toile already made from the original pattern 
3. I pinned the toile to fit as desired on the stand (as they are leggings I made it close fitting)
4. I measured the reductions and transferred the measurements to the paper pattern
5. I made a pattern for the buckle straps (3.5cms doubled for both sides of the strap plus 1cm seam allowance)
6. I altered the length of the buckle straps depending on the position on the leg (e.g. thigh level is longer than lower leg level)
7. I toiled the trousers using a stretchy jersey fabric as I am using lycra for the final garment
8. I inserted an invisible zip at centre back. (I chose not to use a zip in the final garment as the fabric is too stretchy and the zip made the fabric bulge and it looked uneven. I replaced the zip with a waistband. I made a pattern - 3cm strip plus 1cm SA)
9. I sewed the inside and outer seams of the trouser by over locking (a normal stitch was not used as the fabric is stretchy)
10. I hemmed the trousers by overlocking then turning hem up twice (approx 2cms) and hand-stitched the hem (this didn't work because when trying the trousers on the hand stitching came undone.)
11. I sampled one buckle strap on the toile. I did not use interfacing so it was not firm enough to hold its shape (it scrunched up) I intend to use interfacing in the final garment.
12. I then began making my final garment out of metallic lycra.
13. I cut the four pattern pieces on folded fabric
14. I cut out my waistband and ten buckle straps on single layer fabric
15. I started overlocking the leg pieces together (front to back - outer side seam and inside seam)
16. I sewed the CF and then CB together
    
17. I added the waistband then tried on for size. The trousers were too big so I had to sew a seam down the centre back to fit.
    
18. Buckle straps: I ironed on the interfacing and sewed the straps and bagged them out. I hand stitched the end seams and added the buckles by threading the strap through and machine stitching in place.
    
19. I hand stitched the buckle straps down the inside seams on both legs. So you cannot see the stitch on the outside of the buckle strap.
    
20. I hemmed the trouser leg using the cover stitch machine 

Concept video

This is my video to represent my concept behind my collection.

Toile Diary: Fishnet Suspender dress

This is a CAD image of one of my final designs for my witchcraft collection.

From this I had to create a toile using material that represented the fishnet so I used a stretchy jersey.
I started with a basic bodice block and a sleeve block in size 12 and traced around these pieces marking all the notches and details.

As I want my top to be cropped I shortened the bodice so it was just under the bust as the suspenders will pull it down a bit more when it is attached to the skirt.
For the sleeves I slashed and spread and then gathered the pieces together because I want the arms to be tight fitted. I then re traced this for my final pattern.

As the crop top will be a stretchy fishnet I didn't put a zip in and then firstly attached the back and front piece by the shoulders by only overlocking because I normal stitch would not work on stretchy material.

I then attached the sleeves pinning where the notches were in the middle and then levelled out the rest of the sleeve so it would match the bodice. I then turned the garment inside out and overlocked from the wrist all the way to the end of the bust of the crop top. I then repeated this on the other side.

As my target market is high street I will leave the hems raw and add a waistband to the skirt.
Sewing fishnet will be difficult so I will try these two methods:

1. Use zig-zag stitch french seams.  Go slow, and make sure the net doesn't get caught in the foot.

2.  Roll the edge and iron it so that you have more 'fabric' to work with, and sew like normal.  A variation on this is to roll the edge, iron it, and paint it with nail polish so that it stays together better and 
doesn't get caught in the foot. 

3.  Interface the fishnet with bias tape or elastic, and sew.

Because fishnet is so pliable, you want to make it one size smaller, and always use a zig zag.

For the seams I will take a strip of black lycra and sandwich it in, placing it behind the two layers of fishnet as I sew, then trim off anything that wasn't 
encased in the thread. For the edges I will fold over elastic.

I found this which inspired me as one of my designs creates a pentagram laced between the fishnet so if I have enough time I shall also sample this and see if the shape works at the back of the crop top. 

Sketchbook Inspiration: Native American

I have been obsessed with the Native American Culture since I was younger and had to use some part of this in my collection as I feel very passionate about it. I took influence from the dreamcatchers and wolves as they are my favourite animal. Wolves are very independent, spiritual, mystical creatures that contain wisdom and leadership. In one of my designs I have created a jacket with a dreamcatcher on the back which will be handmade.

Sketchbook Inspiration: Chakras

After looking at Buddhism I decided to look into meditation and the chakras as pagans also meditate which I will closely link to witchcraft. What I was inspired by was the shapes and symbols used and how each chakra has a different meaning colour and specific crystal to meditate with. As I meditate and balance my chakras I already knew this information so had to incorporate this in my work as I would love to design spiritual symbols and techniques within my garments.

Sketchbook Inspiration: Picnic at hanging rock

Being inspired by bohemian but not wanting to look in depth I steered in a different direction and looked at pure white dresses and I came across this film with these young girls who wear beautiful full length and long sleeved white dresses. Each dress differs and have individual styles and textures. From this I sampled on the mannequin part of one dress where the sleeve was layered and had gathering ruffles on the shoulder.

Sketchbook Inspiration: Draping on the stand

The draping on the stand was inspired by the witch trails which I researched into. I was shocked by how women were accused and killed and drew influence from the noose and the hangings of the 'alleged witches'. So I sampled with some similar looking rope and created braiding knot-work on the mannequin. From this I was then further fascinated by japanese bondage called shibaku. 

Sketchbook Inspiration: Rituals in the woods

This is one of my very first pages of my sketchbook based on witchcraft. I found these pictures and they inspired me as shots for the film we will produce at the end of the brief. These images represent my concept as my collection will be based on nature and magic.

Sketchbook Inspiration: Drugs

This is another page inspired by drugs and the hypnotic state drugs can cause. What I took from this was how people who took drugs saw bizarre things such as patterns and merging colours etc...

Sketchbook Inspiration: Devils Breath

When I was researching bohemian I didn't want to focus too much on the hippy style as it has been done many times before. Apart from Stevie Nicks of course who was the ultimate goddess of boho style! So instead I looked into the drug side of the 1960's as this was a huge movement during this period. I came across one particular drug that caught my attention called 'Devils Breath' which is a drug that is air borne and can be blown into the victims face which will instantly drug them. The effects of this drug are that it can wipe the memory of the victim and make them lose control of their own freewill. This means they are a puppet to whoever drugged them and will say yes to anything the dictator.

Sketchbook Inspiration: Stevie Nicks

Another inspirational page was based on the musician Stevie Nicks who was a huge fashion icon and still is today for Bohemian style. On stage she wrapped herself in layers of lace, chiffon and fringing. Stevie Nicks chose mystique over sexiness and quoted; 'Personally, I think that sexy is keeping yourself mysterious. I'm really an old-fashioned girl, and I think I'm totally sexy.' I was heavily influenced by her style and part of my designs for my collection are based around layering.

Sketchbook Inspiration: Gypsy Culture

This is a double page from my collection inspiration based on traditional gypsy culture. A lot of decoration is used with their clothing and it shows very collective sense of style where everything clashes and is thrown together. As my target market is high street and my customer wears mainly vintage inspired clothing and individual jewellery, gypsy culture fit in suitably with drawing inspiration from and how to clash textures, colours and prints in a collective and stylish way.

Sketchbook Inspiration: Buddhism

For our college brief we must find inspiration which influence and help design our final collection for the fashion show. The reason I briefly researched into Buddhism is because I loved the intricate detail with the buddhist wall hangings and how the main focus is based on a person with layers if fabrics with interesting patterns and shapes. I also love the use of oriental flowers and earthy/nature images which are incorporated. As I printed in black and white you cannot see the gorgeous use of rich colours and the hints of golds used which my collection's colour palette relates similarly too.

Here are some of the images that inspired my colour palette: